Ireland: Fine Country With a Familiar Problem
Posted in Opinions, Rants, and Musings on September 1st, 2010On Monday I got back from a six day trip to Ireland. Along with my wife, Megan, my sister, Ann, and my mother and stepfather, we toured Dublin, Galway, and the countryside. I found it to be everything I was expecting. The people are friendly but incredibly pale. Dublin was touristy, but still has a great deal of picturesque charm. We ate at the pubs, drank many pints of Guinness, and even toured the Guinness store house, where we learned about the process of making the iconic beer. We took a horse-drawn carriage ride, walked through Saint Stephan’s Green, and stayed at a couple of nice bed and breakfasts. In Galway we walked along the cobblestone streets, and we went on a two day exploration of the surrounding fields and hills that covered nearly twenty miles altogether. On Saturday night, Megan, Ann and I went pub hopping, and we ended up at an after hours club where a band called The Wilful (yes, that’s how they spelled it) covered Sinatra, The Backstreet Boys, Lady Gaga, Rage Against the Machine, and Tenacious D, to name a few. I saw probably the worst and most unintentionally homoerotic dancing of my entire life, and it was completely hilarious, a highlight of the trip.
At another tavern, we met a guy who’d lived in Galway his entire life, and his family had lived there for something like the past 1400 years. He regaled us with an Irish history lesson, most of which we already knew about, but it was interesting to hear it from a lifelong resident. He talked about the seemingly never ending struggle between Northern and Southern Ireland, the unrest caused in the past and present by British occupancy, and the struggle between Catholics and Protestants for control of the island that has gone on since The Tudors. It was somewhat depressing, but an all too familiar story of religious groups fighting over land, like the Jews and Palestinians in the Gaza strip, though in this case it’s a question of one stupid version of Christianity supposedly being better than another stupid version of Christianity. Religion, in this case, is all tied up with nation pride, and it doesn’t seem likely it’s ever going to be completely resolved. The guy we were talking to was resigned to it, and he told us that he simply would never go to Northern Ireland in his life, because the people there would hear his accent, shoot him in the head, and dump his body in a river. He’d never be seen again. To hear him talk about it so casually was a little chilling, for us three Americans who were just there to get drunk, have a good time, then return safely to our own country. It’s not like there aren’t places in America that are dangerous, and racism and xenophobia and homophobia exists here just like religious intolerance exists there, but still, I’d like to think that we’re gradually working on getting beyond these things. I’d like to think that we’re moving largely in the right direction, and it was disheartening to me to see someone who had just accepted the situation for what it was and couldn’t ever conceive of it really changing.
Overall, I liked Ireland very much and enjoyed experiencing different parts of it. In many ways it’s just what it’s made out to be: the accents, people decked out in green, potatoes with most meals, soccer, and pastoral, sheep-covered land that hasn’t changed a bit in hundreds of years. But it was also noteworthy that the religious struggles that have likewise existed there for hundreds of years are still very much in evidence, and that isn’t going to change any time soon.